Horse care is a subject that all horsey people are forever learning more about, and it’s a subject I could talk about for weeks and still not cover every possible topic, which can be overwhelming, especially for beginners or aspiring horse owners. I got my horse western bridles that have lasted me for a very long time, recently I bought western breastplates are made with quality leather encasing gun metal conchos and an intricate weave . With this in mind, I’ve designed this as an easy to digest introduction to horse care for beginners, covering all of the basics that you need to know. I’ll be covering the following aspects of how to look after a horse…
Even if you are stabled at a yard, you should still know the basics of horse care for beginners, hence this guide I’ll be adding more in depth guides on each topic over time, but let’s begin with the basics – continue reading to find out all of the basic horse care you should know. And if you’d like to buy a horse then this is the best place to find horses for sale that we have found as they have some great horses listed and also lots of other useful advice.
An Overview of the Basics of Horse Care
Then if you are thinking of buying a horse you need to check as many marketplaces as possible and this one is fantastic also to consider the basics of horse care you need to consider will be anything that affects a horse’s health and well being…
- Suitable living conditions – this is a fundamental factor in horse care, making sure they have a suitable environment to live in! Is the stable suitable? Is the field suitable?
- Suitable routine and horse care for horses living in or out – depending on how the horse is kept, and the type of work it does, the routine will vary. Providing a routine that will suit each horse, is so important for horse care.
- Suitable feed – horses have sensitive digestive systems, so you will need to understand the basics of feeding to provide good horse care.
- Grooming – grooming isn’t just about making your horse look pretty, it’s invaluable time to bond and check over your horse, and keep them in good condition.
- Equipment – know what you need, and keep it in good condition.
- Health – is your horse healthy? This is something you’ll want to know. Recognising signs of health, knowing when to call a vet, and being able to administer basic first aid is essential.
- And more – there’s always more to know and learn about horse care!
BASIC HORSE CARE RULES:
- Check on horse’s at least twice a day
- Make sure grazing is free of danger and poisonous plants
- Make sure stables are suitable/safe/kept clean
- Always have fresh water available
- Feed appropriately for the horse’s type and workload
- Have regular health checks and farrier care
- Keep up to date with vaccinations and worming
- Make sure equipment is kept in good, safe condition
Horse Care for a Horse that Lives Out
Often seen as an easier option, but not necessarily the case. Horses that live out will still need visiting at least twice a day to check on their well being and maintain their grazing. And in winter, as there is less nutritional value in the grass, many horses will need hay supplied too. You will need to have the type of horse that is happy to live out year round (generally hardy/native breeds, although many people easily manage less hardy breeds living out with rugs/shelter).
- Field Maintenance – The grazing should be maintained by picking up droppings and checking for poisonous plants, such as ragwort, regularly (ideally everyday). Along with topping, rolling and harrowing, as needed (the yard will usually do this, but if you are responsible, a local farmer will usually be available to hire).
- Limiting grazing – a lot of horses and ponies will need restricted grazing to keep their weight down and prevent laminitis in summer; this can be done by ‘strip grazing’ or using a ‘starvation paddock’. Strip grazing is achieved by creating a strip of paddock with electric tape and gradually moving it back a few feet at a time as they eat down the grass. A starvation paddock is a similar concept, just making a mini paddock instead of strips.
- Preserving your grass – in winter horses can seriously ‘poach’ the ground, damaging the grass by making it muddy and full of potholes. To preserve it, so you have decent grass for summer, you can either have a sacrificial winter paddock, or use a rotational paddock system to allow paddocks time to recover.
- Fencing – this should be horse safe; I see too many horse paddocks surrounded by barbed wire and damaged fencing. In a perfect world, we’d all have smart wooden post and rails, but this can be very expensive. Ideally (other than gates) you don’t want the posts concreted in case of impact. A common alternative is electric tape with posts, which can be very effective (although I’ve known a few horses that seem immune to the shock! ). As long as there are no sharp edges, gaps that horses hooves can be caught in (I’ve had to rescue a few that were caught in sheep fencing!), or poisonous plants in hedgerows, and the fencing is sufficiently high enough to stop them jumping out, and secure enough to stop them barging through, then it will be fine.
- Shelter – Having a purpose built field shelter is ideal, but if your field doesn’t have one, you ideally want there to be natural shelter such as hedges/trees so your horse can shield itself from the cold weather and wind in winter, or get some shade, and escape the flies in summer.
As mentioned in the grass livery section of Types of Livery Explained – How Much Does it Cost to Stable a Horse?, I personally don’t like not having a stable in case the weather is atrocious, or my horse needs box rest, etc, and I’ve generally had fully clipped horses in full work during winter which means this wouldn’t be ideal.
Horse Care for a Stabled Horse
Few horses live in 24/7, so when I say a stabled horse, I’m generally referring to horses and ponies that have access to a stable; this could mean, (like mine have always been), that they are in at night, and out in the day during winter, then out at night and in during the day throughout summer to avoid the heat and flies! With this in mind, most of the previous section on caring for a horse that lives out, such as looking after the paddock, will also apply, just with some extra considerations…
- The Stable – this needs to be safe and suitable for your horse. A standard guide for size is – 10×12 feet for ponies (Shetlands and tiny ponies will get away with even smaller), 12×12 feet for cobs and horses, and 12×14 feet for larger horses, with foaling stables being 12×16 feet plus. I would personally say that these sizes should be taken as a minimum, especially where grazing may be restricted and they need to spend more time in. The stable should be well ventilated, but not drafty, free from any sharp objects or protrusions that a horse could hurt themselves on, with plenty of head height to prevent them knocking their head. (You’ll also need to consider storage space for hay, feed, bedding, tack and rugs, etc).
So you have a suitable stable… how do you look after it? What basic horse care for beginners guide would be complete without covering mucking out?
- Mucking out – this is often a marmite task that horse owners either love or hate (you can see the difference between the two by the finished beds they make – I’m not joking when I say I’ve seen some that look more inviting than my pocket sprung mattress at home!). However, as long as it’s clean your horse won’t care what it look likes, and by the morning it’ll be a mess anyway. What ever bedding you use, the main job of mucking out is to clear droppings and wet patches, then make the bed thick enough for them to lay down on, with enough padding to protect their joints, and raised banks around the edges to stop them getting cast (laying down or rolling over too close to the wall and getting stuck).
- Feeding/Watering – Horses need fresh water available at all times, so a large flexible plastic/rubber bucket (with no hazardous metal handles) is a good option. Or for convenience, automatic drinkers are great (although one downside is that you can’t monitor how much they are drinking).
- Preventing Boredom – boredom can be a big issue for horses that spend a lot of time stabled. Feeding in small holed haynets can help them take longer eating, however haynets have their own drawbacks, as the more natural eating position for a horse is at ground level, which is better for there respiratory system. Other solutions can be stable toys and boredom breakers, such as carrots and veggies hung from a rope.
- Exercise – horses that spend a lot of time in will need plenty of opportunity to stretch their legs and prevent stiffness and boredom; you can do this with hand grazing, horse walkers, lunging, in-hand and ridden work.
Basic Guide to Feeding Your Horse
Horse care for beginners regarding feeding will just scratch the surface of equine nutrition, but knowing the basics of safe feeding principles is a great start…
BASIC RULES OF FEEDING:
- Feed according to a horse size, weight and workload
- Always feed the best quality you can
- Always allow access to clean, fresh water
- Don’t feed concentrates within an hour before or after exercise
- Make sure the diet is balanced
- Make any changes to feed gradually
- Keep the same feeding times/routine
- Feed little and often
- Feed for the work done, not in anticipation of work
- Measure feed accurately
The type of feed and how much food a horse will need will depend on their size/weight, what work they’re doing, and they’re type/metabolism, etc. As a general rule, and according to the British Horse Society, horses need to eat roughly 2.5% of their body weight each day, with the large majority of this being roughage (hay, haylage, grass).
Horses have sensitive digestive systems, so need careful management; feeding routines should be kept consistent and any changes should be made very gradually. And as they are naturally grazing animals designed to be ‘trickle’ feeders, they should be fed little and often, and predominantly roughage.
- Roughage/Forage/Fibre – roughage, which consists of grass, hay and haylage, should make up the large majority of a horse’s diet. Always buy the best quality hay/haylage you can afford – cheap hay is often dusty and may not be screened for poisonous plants, and will cause more problems than the money it saves! An important thing to note is that horses cannot eat silage, which is fed to cows.
- Hard Feed/Concentrates – hard feeds are classed as the cereals and grains, that often come in processed forms, such as ‘pony nuts’. Depending on the level of work your horse does, it may not need hard feed. There are some horses and ponies that could virtually live on fresh air, especially if they’re just hacking out now and then, and these types won’t need any hard feed, ideally just a handful of low calorie chaff with a good supplement, or even just access to a salt/vitamin/mineral lick.
- Supplements – most horses will require a basic vitamin/mineral supplement to ensure they are getting all the essentials they need into their diet. A lot of owners also swear by garlic and apple cider vinegar to help with general health (and flies in summer!). Older horses and competition horses may benefit from extras (such as joint supplements) – I’d recommend you consult a nutritionist, or your vet, for advice if you are unsure what will be right for your horse (very fancy supplements and feed balancers can be super expensive, so it can save money to ask). Also, be cautious to only buy products approved for the equine industry, and if you plan to compete, especially affiliated, that they do not contain any banned ‘doping’ substances!
- Succulents – succulents are classed as fruits and veg, such as the most commonly given by owners – carrots and apples. I feed these daily, but not in excess, always be sure to slice them in a way that won’t cause choking, for example, carrots should be fed whole or chopped lengthways, as horses may not chew small chunks or discs properly and they could get lodged.
- Treats – there are loads of treats on the market. I tend not to give many treats, and when I do, I stick to the organic/low sugar ones (or just a carrot!), as some can be highly sugary/full of additives. Be mindful when giving treats as they can cause bad habits! I’ve known ponies so used to having treats they won’t be caught without them, or will almost knock you over looking for treats in your pockets!
