by John Jefferson
I laid there on the sand. Fighting to stay awake. The seven-hour drive to Terlingua the day before and a short night’s sleep on the ground prior to launching our canoes into the muddy waters of the Rio Grande, took its toll. Then a long afternoon paddle to the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon added fatigue.
But the peace I found on the sand, listening to soft gurgles of the little riffle just as the Big River enters the 1,500-foot, high-walled canyon, eased my anxiety about this new, challenging adventure. The calming music of the river crossing the rocks was soothing. I finally succumbed, and fell sleep.
As we broke camp the next morning, the first rays of the sun began streaming through part of the canyon from the east. A splendid sight! That was to be the last we saw of the sun, sequestered for eight miles in the deep canyon until we emerged at its other end later that afternoon. The only sign of life we saw was an eagle that screamed at us from high in the West Texas/Northern Mexico sky.
The float was long due to having to arduously portage over and around the infamous “Rockslide,” which was too dangerous to canoe through at that water level.
Finally clearing the canyon, the sun warmed us. But a bitter-sweet feeling came over me as I realized I had experienced something I had wanted to do ever since I saw a calendar picture of the southern exit of the canyon at about age eight. And I realized I might never be there again.
Later, as I was emerging from one profession to a more creative calling, someone asked my wife, what my main interest was – hunting, fishing, photography, canoeing – or what?
She hesitated, then replied, “I think he just wants to see what’s around the next bend.”
Maybe she was right. Canoeing – and now kayaking – have well-fed my wanderlust.
And October is usually the best time to do it. It requires desire, a boat, and water in the stream. The drought took a toll. Many favorite Hill Country canoeing waters – including most of the Llano, except around Mason – currently have insufficient flow. The Guadalupe receives water from Canyon Dam, and Jerry’s Rentals (830-625-2036) says they have enough.
Aaron Riggins, a Hill Country guide, tells me the Nueces below Camp Wood now has sufficient flow, but the fish suffered from the drought. The Sabinal and Frio are quite low. The Colorado below Austin to Webberville is a fine, slow, scenic paddle, and good fishing. Cook’s Canoes (512-276-7767) rents canoes and kayaks.
The Rio Grande currently has enough water, but its water level rises and falls, according to Desert Sports (432-371-2727). Big Bend National Park says of the Lower Canyons: “A trip through these mysterious canyons offers a level of peace and solitude rarely available in the US.”
The same can be said of paddling most Texas streams. Especially during our magical “Indian Summer” autumn weather!
Try it yourself!
JJ
